How to build a frame for a large mirror

how to build a frame for a large mirror

How to Frame a Large Wall Mirror – Add Style for $20

Sep 20,  · We’ll be assembling the frame like an open box with the mirror inside, so you’ll want your backing board to extend onto the frame. Here’s the equations for figuring out the size: Width of mirror + (thickness wood x 2) - 1in = width of backing board. Length of mirror + (thickness of wood x 2) - 1in = length of backing board. Jun 03,  · Cheap, Easy, Anyone Can DIY Mirror Frame! Step 1: Measure and Cut. You know the old adage measure twice, cut once! If you do it right, most standard bathroom mirrors can be entirely framed Step 2: (Optional) Sand Space for Mirror Clamps. Step 3: Attach Frame to Mirror! .

Add a wood frame to a plain ole mirror to add character and style. Buying a framed mirror can cost several hundred dollars or you can DIY your own for a fraction of the cost. We installed two large mirrors during our home gym remodel with the plan to add a wood frame. Mirrors are not only functional but also decorative. Having ti mirror in a space can make it feel more open and spacious.

For our home gym we purchased two large mirrors each measuring 5 x 3 ft so the total surface area of both mirrors together is 6 x 5 ft and this is what we ended up framing. You can use this same tutorial for any sized wall mirror in any room just make sure to adjust your measurements. Click here to read my full disclosure policy. For best measurements I recommend installing your top and bottom pieces, then measuring for the side pieces and then installing the sides.

I found the best way to figure out my cuts was to use a dry erase marker and a level. I made several marks one inch from the edge of the mirror and then drew a line connecting how to become a medical science liaison marks. This line marked the edge of where the wood frame would set on the mirror. Step 1 Make sure to locate your studs. We already knew where our studs were located because the mirror clips were already in studs.

After I made my bottom and top cuts I sanded and stained the wood. I also lightly sanded just the edges of the frame after they were stained to add a rustic touch. Step 2 Then we placed the piece of wood against the mirror over the clips and marked where I would need to carve out the wood for the clips. At first I thought about using a chisel to carve out the wood, then a genius idea hit me. I decided to use a forstner bit instead and it worked amazing.

Then we did a test fit, lined it up with the dry erase marker marks, checked for level, fro fired in several 18G brad nails. We repeated this for the top part of the frame. Step 3 For the sides I held up a 1 x 4 next to the bottom and top frame and marked for my cuts. Then I made a 45 degree miter cut on both ends, held up with the what are the four basic constructions in geometry and did a dry fit.

Then I sanded and stained the sides, sanded the edges ot the rustic touch and attached the sides with 18G brad nails. Step 4 For finishing touches I used wood filler and filled in nail holes and any gaps mirrog the mitered corners met. Wood filler, after diamonds of course is a DIY girls best friend! See the difference? Hope this post has helped give some ideas for framing a mirror. Learn 5 simple tips that help you start and finish every DIY project. As a bonus, you will also get weekly-ish DIY tips sent to your inbox.

I would love to have a mirror that size in my bedroom but I am not sure what my husband would think! Ha ha…yes convincing our husbands to agree with what we want can often be a challenge.

Good Luck! Hi- can how to eat natural and organic advise bkild you buld it sitting flat on the mirror? PleAse help! Hi Thomas, I used the forstner bit on the back of the wood frame to fit over the clips that are holding the mirror in place. This allows my frame to sit flat against the mirror. I think nailing the frame how to build a frame for a large mirror the wall also helped as well.

Same concern as Thomas…I think. The frame will still be at an angle due to the width of the mirror…regardless of any work done around the clips. How thick is your mirror? Hi Mike, Maybe this better clarifies things. So the mirror is flush with the shiplap. Therefore there is no gap from the frame to the wall. I can see what you mean that there would still be a gap from the back of tl frame to the wall if there is no shiplap.

You could make it the same what is a pos system in a restaurant I did in the tutorial and then add trim you need trim thicker than the wood around the frame to hide the gap between the frame and the wall. I hope that makes sense. Your email address will not be published.

This site uses Akismet largee reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. It's difficult to start any DIY project and even more challenging to finish. Pin 1K. Ready to check off your list of DIY projects? Comments I would love to have a mirror that size in my bedroom but I am not sure what my husband would think!

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We learn as we go around here. Progress over perfection, amiright? Big time. Quick disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links.

By using them to make a purchase, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you in advance for contributing to my blog and supporting my Target addiction ;. The ornate silver frame you see in my before images actually started out as a faux wood frame.

The frame was a plastic material that I spray painted gold a while back and then re-spray painted silver. The spray paint helped a bit Finally, last week I was absolutely fed up with looking at it and decided it was time for a real change.

Keep reading till the end to see what the mirror looks like now. My original plan was pretty simple—build a thin wood frame around the entire mirror using 1x2 strips. Then, I planned on using 1x4 strips across of the back of the frame like slats on a bed frame , setting the mirror inside the frame, and glueing it to the slats. Unfortunately, I never got that far. Here are all the ways that my orignal plan went wrong so you can save yourself the trouble:. I bought the cheapest lumber I could find.

I really wanted the mirror to have a thin frame with a slight ledge, so I used 1x2 lumber strips cut to my dimensions. The thin strips were pretty hard to drill into and ended up splitting when I tried to screw the frame together. The wood was too thin. I tried to recreate the thin, metal mirror look by using thin strips of wood and just…no.

Do yourself a HUGE favor and make sure you buy straight lumber. Like no bowing at all. The strips across the back laid on top of the frame rather than inside it. This on is a little hard to explain in words so try to bear with me. I cut the back strips to lay on top on the assembled frame, with the screws going down into the frame.

I should have cut the strips to fit in between the sides of the frame, with the screws going in from the sides. I painted the wood. Staining the wood looks better IMO. Spend the couple extra bucks, double check that your wood is straight, and use a full sheet of plywood as the back of the mirror. I already had the mirror, gorilla glue, screws, and drill —but I did have to buy:. These were the prices at my local Home Depot. Prices vary by location.

Since I used a framed mirror I already had, I had to remove the old frame to get the exact measurements of the mirror itself. I removed the paper backing and the cardboard corner pieces. After that was done, I carefully pulled the frame apart on one corner.

Be very, very, VERY careful not to put too much pressure on the mirror or you risk breaking it. Once the first corner was seperated, the rest were pretty easy to take apart. This is pretty straightforward. Use a measuring tape to measure the length and width of your mirror. For my dimensions, two 10ft boards was the most cost effective way to buy the lumber least amount of wasted wood.

I had my boards cut to the correct size at the hardware store. Keep in mind that most all? I wanted the top and bottom pieces to extend past the side pieces to create my butt joint, so I did a simple equation:.

So for my mirror it would be: 1. The sides should be the exact length of your mirror—so 66in in my case. My dimensions were 38in x 66in. Anyways, assemble your frame and be sure to line up the boards with the top and bottom pieces outside of the side pieces.

I used two 2in screws in each corner to ensure the frame would be sturdy. Leave a little wiggle room for easy placement of your mirror, then tighten the screws once the mirror is in place.

Once your frame is completely assembled, lay the plywood board on top of the open box frame and screw it into place. Again, make sure you predrill the holes first and use enough screws to keep the board securely in place. I use screws on each side. I found it easiest to apply the stain with a paintbrush rather than a rag. I went over the entire frame twice back-to-back and then let it dry for 6 hours before touching it. With the frame still laying flat on the ground, carefully set the mirror inside of it.

Then tighten the screws around the frame. Seriously, how cute is that?! And it was sooo easy to do. The entire project only took a day, and most of that was just waiting for the wood stain to dry before I could move the mirror.

I found the small furry rug at Ross, but here is a similar one at Home Depot for the same price. My Instagram. My Home. Sep Kayla Simone. View fullsize. Now on to creating the new frame. Now time to assemble! Show 5 comments.

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